Architecture and Fashion: YSL at Mies van der Rohe’s Neue Nationalgalerie and AMO/OMA’s Set Design for Prada

Architecture and fashion share an interesting interplay in the formation of cultural expressions and identities. Both disciplines can become vehicles for creativity at different levels. Architecture is often described as the “third skin” of humans, while clothes represent the second skin, highlighting somewhat similar functionality of protecting the body while also allowing for self-expression and individuality.

The relationship between architecture and fashion can also be seen in the shared design principles, such as form, proportion, human scale, and materiality. More than a simple background for runway shows, architecture can contribute to setting the atmosphere, becoming a source of inspiration, and orienting the movement through space. Collaborations between architects and fashion houses, such as the renowned partnership between OMA/AMO and Prada, further blur the boundaries between the two disciplines, demonstrating the myriad of interconnections between the two creative fields.

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Read on to discover some of the runway shows presented this year that illustrate the interplay between architecture and fashion.


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Saint Laurent Men’s Summer 24 at Mies van der Rohe’s Neue Nationalgalerie

Anthony Vaccarello’s new collection for Saint Laurent was showcased in Berlin’s Neue Nationalgalerie, one of the most representative works by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe and recently renovated by David Chipperfield. The show goes beyond merely using the gallery as a background; it draws inspiration from its clean lines and the “unexpected lightness of construction.” Consequently, the silhouettes presented remain sharp while also showcasing pared-down elegance, aiming to recreate the timelessness of the architecture that feels as novel now as when it first opened in 1968.

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Saint Laurent Men’s Summer 24 at Mies van der Rohe’s Neue Nationalgalerie. Image Courtesy of Saint Laurent
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Saint Laurent Men’s Summer 24 at Mies van der Rohe’s Neue Nationalgalerie. Image Courtesy of Saint Laurent

OMA/AMO Reimagines Space for Prada SS24 Menswear Show

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OMA - Prada SS2024 Menswear Show. Image © Agostino Osio

AMO, OMA's research and design branch, has reimagined the space of the Deposito at Fondazione Prada, Milan for Prada’s Spring Summer 2024 menswear show. Similar to last year’s show which featured a kinetic ceiling, AMO conceived a space that changes as the show progresses. This time, liquid partitions started pouring from the 3.3-meter-high suspended ceiling.

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OMA - Prada SS2024 Menswear Show. Image © Agostino Osio

While models were walking down the runway, a cascading flow of green organic liquid started flowinf from the ceiling, forming fluid walls between the audience and the models. The translucent walls also altered the otherwise sterile image of the Deposito, clad in perforated metal panels. The clinical aesthetic of the room was amplified through the uniform lighting and the perimetral ring of sky panels.

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OMA - Prada SS2024 Menswear Show. Image © Agostino Osio and Alberto Moncada, courtesy OMA and Prada

Jerry Lorenzo's Fear of God presented its first runway show at the Hollywood Bowl

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The Hollywood Bowl's 1980s–2003 appearance. Image © Alan Light via Wikipedia under license CC BY 2.0

Hollywood Bowl, the outdoor theater initially designed by Lloyd Wright, son of architect Frank Lloyd Wright, is today recognized as one of the best music venues in California. It was also the chosen location for Jerry Lorenzo’s debut runway show for his contemporary fashion label Fear of God. It was the second fashion event taking place at the Bowl in 30 years, after Calvin Klein’s runway in 1993. The set design included a large-scale overhead structure projecting images of clouds as models strutted down the runway.

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Cite: Maria-Cristina Florian. "Architecture and Fashion: YSL at Mies van der Rohe’s Neue Nationalgalerie and AMO/OMA’s Set Design for Prada" 07 Jul 2023. ArchDaily. Accessed . <https://www.archdaily.com/1003643/architecture-and-fashion-ysl-at-mies-van-der-rohes-neue-nationalgalerie-and-amo-omas-set-design-for-prada> ISSN 0719-8884

Saint Laurent Men’s Summer 24 at Mies van der Rohe’s Neue Nationalgalerie. Image Courtesy of Saint Laurent

倾泻的粘液隔板:Prada 2024 春夏时装秀场设计 / AMO

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