Varanasi's Ghats: The Adaptable Riverscapes of India

Water, with its religious connotations as a symbol of purification and life, holds great significance in many cultures. Nowhere is this respect for water more evident than in India, a country that reveres its rivers as holy. Water bodies serve as a testament to the veneration and use of water in religious rituals, embodying cultural heritage as public spaces, ritual sites, and places for cremation. Central to daily life in India, water and water architecture intertwine spirituality, and cultural traditions, offering a glimpse into the rich traditions of communities.

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India's ancient cities grew around rivers. Guided by geography and climate, limited local resources, and individual histories, riverscapes emerged as a unique design expression for each settlement. A built form typical, if not unique, to India, are the Ghats. They have emerged as a response to religious, spiritual, and social needs along the water edges, becoming places of human congregation. Originating from the Sanskrit word “ghatta” meaning “a landing place”, Ghats are a set of steps built parallel to the river flow and leading to the water. They are constructed to provide river access, retain soil, stabilize and define the river banks, guide water flow, and protect settlements from flooding. Built within the river landscape, the Ghats strengthen the enduring connection between nature, culture, people, and water.

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Boats are accessed from the Ghats at Varanasi. Image © Srivatsan Balaji

Throughout history, the riverbanks were magnets for the establishment of temple complexes, pilgrimage sites, palaces, forts, and capital cities during various reigns and periods. Among the Ghats scattered across the country, the ones along the river Ganga are the most celebrated, as the river is honored as a living goddess and believed to possess self-healing properties. In Hindu tradition, pivotal stages of life are deeply connected with the Ganga - from the anointment of newborns and initiation ceremonies to weddings and cremations at its banks. Located in the city of Varanasi, these Ghats symbolically mirror the cyclical nature of existence in Hindu philosophy, physically manifesting as a planar cascade into the sacred river.


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At Varanasi, the Ghats are a thin sliver of public space between the dense city and the Ganga. Eighty-four sets of steps line the urban edge, their number increasing with gradual subdivisions. Narrow streets lead residents, pilgrims, and tourists to the wide landings of the Ghats, where people engage in worship, bathing, and cremation rituals by the river. Their role as settings for the ongoing practice of ancient traditions contributes to their status as cultural heritage, sustaining cultural memories, beliefs, and values.

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Daily public activity at the Ghats . Image © Parvi Bansal

The Varanasi Ghats are fashioned out of a necessity to adapt to the ever-changing water levels of the Ganga. The river experiences significant fluctuations in depth, varying by approximately 10-15 meters during the monsoon and dry seasons. The seasonal flow of water gives rise to a dynamic landscape along the banks of the Ganga, intricately connected to a calendar of rituals and festivals influenced by celestial movements. The land-water interface is organized in a sectional manner based on flood levels - bathing spaces are at the lowest level, public gathering areas and amenities are positioned at safer higher steps, and ritual spaces are nestled in between.

Reflecting the diverse and vibrant life along the river, the Ghats also witness a multitude of activities throughout the day. At dawn, it becomes a space for washing utensils and cattle and early strolls. Vendors occupy the place post noon catering to children and adults using the space for gatherings and rest. Alongside them, priests meditate and perform ritual ceremonies, while pilgrims pray at adjacent temples and at the Ghats. These auspicious locations are a site for religious and social ceremonies, including weddings and fertility rituals. Cremations are regularly conducted on the Ghats as well.

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The changing water levels of the Ganga river. Image Courtesy of Morphogenesis

The belief in a cosmic loop in the Ghats of Ganga, a promise to break the cycle of life and death to achieve nirvana, has resulted in the development of Varanasi along the river banks. Numerous commemorative and religious structures were constructed to facilitate ritualistic practices in response to the presence of the river. The cultural landscape of the land-water interface is adorned with temples, public buildings, pavilions, water tanks (kunds), streets, and plazas. Additional supporting infrastructure emerged from the riverside development. The evolution of the Ghats' cultural landscape followed a spatiotemporal order, arising from self-organized systems of worship and pilgrimage.

Serve a vital practical purpose, the Ghats function as guardians of the river embankment while providing a safe and accessible pathway to the river. Their resilient structure has weathered the tests of time, standing firm in the face of both natural disasters and cultural upheavals. These architectural marvels seamlessly integrate the flowing river with the city's fabric, ensuring its protection from the relentless currents. Regular repairs are undertaken to counter the erosive forces exerted by the rushing waters, as well as to address the damages caused by leaking drains that regrettably discharge sewage into the Ganga.

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Cremation at Manikarnika Ghat on the banks of the Ganga river. Image © Akella Srinivas Ramalingaswami

The Ghats at Varanasi are an exemplary case study for architects and urban planners seeking to explore the intricate dynamics between the built environment and water bodies. They offer insights into the realm of waterfront planning, showcasing ingenious strategies devised to combat erosion, manage floods, and ensure enhanced access to water. Unlike many other Indian cities that often lack a physical response to water, the Ghats stand as a testament to an architectural response imbued with deep religious and cultural significance. Studying its design and layout can provide lessons in creating functional and inviting waterfront spaces that cater to human needs. 

In contrast to major international cities where luxury apartments and upscale businesses dot its banks, Indian riverbanks nurture associations rooted in a traditional socio-cultural context. Within the river landscape, the built inserts of Ghats reinforce the bond between nature, culture, and people. The river is a unifying force, washing away societal divisions and strengthening a sense of shared humanity. They are vessels of communal identity and cultural heritage where the ritualistic cycle of life unfolds. Varanasi's Ghats are not just structures - they are thresholds where land and water; humans and nature; and the divine and the mundane merge.

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A priest sitting at the Ghats in Varanasi. Image © Abhishek Mittal

This feature is part of an ArchDaily series titled AD Narratives where we share the story behind a selected project, diving into its particularities. Every month, we explore new constructions from around the world, highlighting their story and how they came to be. We also talk to the architect, builders, and community seeking to underline their personal experiences. As always, at ArchDaily, we highly appreciate the input of our readers. If you think we should feature a certain project, please submit your suggestions.

This article is part of the ArchDaily Topics: Water in Architecture, proudly presented by Hansgrohe.

“Water is life and our passion. And water conservation is climate protection. We at Hansgrohe are committed to making a difference in how water is considered in Architecture, with products that save water while maintaining the same showering experience.”

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Cite: Ankitha Gattupalli. "Varanasi's Ghats: The Adaptable Riverscapes of India " 12 Jun 2023. ArchDaily. Accessed . <https://www.archdaily.com/1002292/varanasis-ghats-the-adaptable-riverscapes-of-india> ISSN 0719-8884

Historic Varanasi city with old architectural buildings and temples. Image © Roop Dey

印度瓦拉纳西的 Ghats,河流景观中的高塔建筑

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