Located 270km north of Dakar, the capital of Senegal, and near the border with Mauritania, is the Island of Saint-Louis. It is a prominent colonial city in West Africa, known for its blend of Mediterranean architecture with a tropical climate. Saint-Louis was founded by the French Colony in 1659 as its first trading post on the Atlantic coast of Africa. It later became the capital of French West Africa (AOF) and Senegal. However, it lost this status in 1902, which led to its economic decline.
This complex history has made Saint-Louis a melting point for different layers of architecture and urbanism. The island showcases a grid urban form with double-storey villas, which is typical of 19th-century French colonial urbanism. Additionally, it features tropical courtyards, shaded balconies, 1920s art déco houses, and early '30s modern civic buildings. However, due to its economic and infrastructural isolation, this architecture and urban heritage have continuously degraded. Therefore, it seeks new interventions for the conservation, restoration, and re-adaptation of the city.
The historical heritage of Saint-Louis Island, including its architecture, fishing economy, and cultural tourism, continues to make it a prominent attraction in West Africa. As you walk through the distinctive landscape, you'll see a gallery of townhouses facing the street. These houses feature symmetrical French windows that open onto a balcony, adorned with decorative wooden balustrades, some made of wrought iron, and capped with a mechanical tile awning. The buildings create a sense of freshness, with its ground-floor shops interacting with the street. They also have a character of brightly colored envelopes that serve as a backdrop for cultural expression, such as the Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, the largest of its kind in Africa, which is hosted annually on the island.
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However, amidst this beautiful urban form, there is also evidence of the deterioration or disappearance of many remarkable buildings. Some buildings, dating back to the 19th century, have sections of walls that are at risk of collapsing, while others have disintegrating plasterwork. The spatial forms of former trading houses, which cannot be readapted, are left abandoned and add to the derelict nature of many structures. In a piece titled "View from St Louis, Senegal," Paul Brislin referred to this architectural character as a living experiment of tolerance. It exemplifies the complex relationship between the past and present in the challenging transitions of African cities. This architectural character has earned the island its unique nickname "The Sleeping Beauty" and was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, prompting calls for restorative interventions.
According to Le Point, the state of urban heritage has become alarming. Approximately 10 to 20% of buildings are at risk of ruin, and over 30% require significant repairs. While UNESCO has designated 720 buildings on the island as protected, a considerable number of buildings with architectural and historical significance have already been lost. Furthermore, the few restorations that have taken place often fail to preserve the original facade identity. The island as a whole is impacted by new constructions, improper housing restoration, architectural alterations, and urban projects that compromise authenticity, integrity, and the appreciation of its heritage values.
The unique challenge of urban conservation in Saint-Louis involves revitalizing the colonial urban heritage of outstanding universal value and redefining the city's purpose. This includes adapting 19th-century houses and the historic urban layout to meet contemporary living standards and requirements. The 2016 UNESCO Heritage review emphasizes the need for a deep appreciation of architectural identity and ensuring that colonial urban heritage values are acknowledged and respected by all communities and stakeholders at the local, regional, and national levels. It also requires recognizing and understanding the nature and value of heritage in order to effectively manage change, facilitate the adaptive reuse of townhouses and the urban structure of the Island of Saint-Louis, and integrate heritage values into the city's modernization projects. For instance, warehouses and trading houses with a rich economic heritage can be repurposed to accommodate the city's local economic activities while also serving as cultural sites that are accessible to the public.
The UNESCO Heritage Review also recommends linking the city's building capacity with an innovative new economy. This involves developing heritage conservation and heritage-focused design as a sustainable market. To achieve this, it is necessary to have more professionals trained in conservation, such as architects, landscape architects, urban planners, artisans, project managers, and skilled laborers, who can maintain constant communication with the city fabric. Improving the city's economy also means improving its accessibility to other parts of Senegal and the world. The railway connection that once thrived in the 20th century is no longer in service, forcing people to endure 5-hour car journeys to reach Saint-Louis. Restoring this train service is crucial to reviving the city and igniting other aspects of its restoration.
To address conservation and governance challenges, it is important to implement various projects, such as workshops, communal engagements, and local exhibitions with the Island’s community. These projects aim to develop knowledge and planning tools, local construction systems, regulatory systems, civic engagement tools, building restoration skills, and financial tools necessary to preserve, repair, and readapt buildings. They also play a crucial role in reorienting the ideals of the island. As architect Xavier Ricou points out in the article "Can we still save Saint-Louis from Senegal?", the island seems more focused on its future, particularly with the exploitation of offshore oil and gas resources. However, it is essential to preserve the architecture of Saint-Louis, as it serves as the most powerful catalog of its history.
This feature is part of an ArchDaily series titled AD Narratives where we share the story behind a selected project, diving into its particularities. Every month, we explore new constructions from around the world, highlighting their story and how they came to be. We also talk to the architect, builders, and community seeking to underline their personal experiences. As always, at ArchDaily, we highly appreciate the input of our readers. If you think we should feature a certain project, please submit your suggestions.
