This article was originally published in La Joven Cuba on June 28, 2022.

A few weeks ago, I visited the rooftop observation deck of the hotel Paseo del Prado and marveled at its immense beauty during the sunset. Ahead, the entrance to the bay and the Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro; turning left, the silhouette of the Malecón; turning right, the Paseo del Prado, with the massive Capitol building crowning the perspective. Few cities in the world possess such architectural and landscape beauty, such history and monumentality.

Yet, looking back, what I saw was nothing to be proud of. Though it still held a certain beauty, it was a sad, gray sight: the vast, faded, and deteriorated expanse of the city stretching behind the facades of Prado and the Malecón.